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Restaurant offrant une cuisine française teintée d'un léger accent méditerranéen.
Particularité de moins en moins courante dans notre capitale : Taillevent fait partie, comme la Tour d’Argent, de ces grands restaurants qui appartiennent à une famille, hier les Vrinat, aujourd’hui les Gardinier. Le lieu, l'ancien Hôtel particulier du Duc de Morny, est simplement somptueux. Quant à la cuisine, sous la direction d'Alain Soliveres depuis 2002, elle perpétue une certaine idée, traditionnelle, de la haute cuisine française, teintée à l’occasion d’un léger accent méditerranéen. Rémoulade de tourteau à l’aneth sauce fleurette citronnée, foie gras de canard des Landes au vin de Saint-Estèphe, lieu jaune de ligne nacré, algues nori, huîtres et laitue, tournedos de bœuf Rossini, poulet de Bresse à la rôtissoire ou encore noix de ris de veau croustillante : la gastronomie version Taillevent sera donc consensuelle et bourgeoise, offrant en cela un miroir fidèle de la clientèle. Le goût du jour, on le trouvera du côté des dressages. Difficile de ne pas évoquer le service : il perpétue de la même façon une tradition pour ainsi dire perdue aujourd’hui dans les grands restaurants indépendants parisiens, avec pas moins de quinze cuisiniers, cinq pâtissiers et surtout dix-sept maîtres d’hôtel. Taillevent offre à une certaine élite un miroir rassurant, et le sentiment, forcément tronqué, que rien ne change.
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Questions fréquentes :
The establishment renewed.
Le Taillevent is an institution, even its wine list is legendary. When you set foot there, passing the voiturier, you set foot in a just renewed two stars establishment. Honestly, you have to enjoy the ceremonial. First, they ll take care of your coats, then you’ll be escorted through the hallway, then through first room, and finally to the main dinner room, greeted all the way long by members of the staff. This is pure classism. Yet, classism wouldn’t feel right if it felt old and out of fashion. Here, the place has been renovated is a very elegant manner, stressing the classism but removing the unnecessary ornements from past to add designed elements. For those who reads my reviews, it’s very similar to the « trente trois ». Beautifully integrated. And if you add the perfectly balanced Michelin star service (close, warm and yet distant enough), you feel exactly what you should : You have all the Michelin multistars code within a contemporary setting.
The question is: does the cuisine match the place? Yes. Just like La Tour d Argent or Lucas Carton, the task is daunting. But the chef manages the same balance the designer or the brigade de salle did: Classism with a dash of contemporary. So dishes are revisited, just the way they should ever be.
The crowd was a mix of business, couples and friends enjoying a great meal. The mood is very classic and upscale. Gentlemen do not need to wear a suit anymore, but I did think that the atmosphere calls for it.
It’s a solid 2 stars, I had a great experience.
Update 2022: Went back after a year. It’s called an institution because it’s stable. And it is. What I may have not praised enough in my previous review was the quality of the wine list, but the rest was as good as the first time. Don’t get me wrong, I did not have the same dishes. The chef does change the menu. Actually, you can compare the menu I took last year to the one this year. There’s movement, but as the famous quote says “Everything has to change so that nothing changes”. Those changes guarantee you that Taillevent will stay Taillevent.
Having said that I did prefer this time.
Definitely a very solid two stars